My Newest (And Oldest) Sewing Machine - The Willcox & Gibbs Chain Stitch Machine
A Brief Moment in Time
In the timeline of human history, the sewing machine is a very recent invention—practically just a blip. For thousands of years, clothing was crafted entirely by hand, using simple tools like needles made of bone, wood, or metal. It was slow, meticulous work, typically done by professional tailors and dressmakers who dedicated their lives to the trade. Whether it was for a king or a peasant, every garment had to be carefully stitched by hand. If you've ever tried hand sewing a full project, you know just how much time and effort it takes—even for something simple.
Enter the Age of Invention
The 18th century marked a turning point. As the Industrial Revolution took hold, machines began replacing many of the tasks once done by hand. Clothing production was no exception. In 1755, Charles Fredrick Weisenthal received the first British patent for a sewing aid—though it wasn’t yet a “sewing machine” as we know it.
It wasn’t until 1830 that a true breakthrough happened: Barthélemy Thimonnier patented a working sewing machine in France (follow this link to see a demonstration of how Thimonnier’s machine worked -Machine de Thimonnier). Built mostly of wood, his invention was used to make military uniforms. But it wasn’t warmly welcomed—tailors feared their livelihood was at risk, and they pushed back hard. Despite this, the idea caught on. Inventors quickly built upon Thimonnier’s concept, each improving on the last.
By the mid-19th century, machines were finally becoming practical for use in the home, not just factories. This was the era that gave rise to one of the most iconic names in sewing: Singer.
The Legacy of Willcox & Gibbs
Among the many innovators of this time was James Edward Allen Gibbs. In 1857, he patented his chain-stitch machine and, alongside James Willcox, began manufacturing it in Providence, Rhode Island. Their machines became hugely popular—for both home use and manufacturing—and their legacy still stitches on today.
My own Willcox & Gibbs machine was made in 1880, and what’s amazing is that its design is nearly identical to the original 1850s version. It’s compact, and many people mistake it for a toy. But don’t let its size fool you—it’s a workhorse. From the back, you can even see the distinctive "G" shape in honor of Gibbs.
Unlike modern lockstitch machines that use a bobbin, this one produces a chain stitch. On top, the stitch looks similar to what you'd expect, but flip the fabric over and you'll see a knit-like "V" pattern—classic chain stitching.
Built to Last
The Willcox & Gibbs machines were so well-made that production continued, almost unchanged, into the early 20th century. Originally powered by a hand crank, later versions offered a treadle and, eventually, a custom-fitted electric motor.
My machine was lovingly restored by Eddie G. of Alexandria, Alabama. He’s a master at bringing these beauties back to life and has shipped hundreds of them all over the world. After 145 years, this machine still works just as it was designed to—no electronics, no fuses, no fuss. Just simple, beautiful engineering.
For ease of use, I’ve added a modern motor and belt—completely reversible and non-invasive to the original design. I’ll be using it for several upcoming sewing projects, and I can't wait to share more.
Interested in One for Yourself?
If you're intrigued by the idea of owning a piece of sewing history, you’re in luck. Willcox & Gibbs machines are readily available online. They’re highly collectible, retain their value, and make for fantastic conversation pieces. Already own one? I’d love to hear your story—drop a comment below and tell me all about it!
References & Further Reading